Carpet Cleaners

With website design becoming so cheap and automated its hard to tell what type of carpet cleaners you might be dealing with. The image that these site give might not refect what you get.

Looks are importnat you would not eat in a pub if it looks dirty. as we know if the owner lets the public area look dirty then what the backstage areas like? well we have the other side of that with the Internet you might find a carpet cleaner website that looks nice and clean only to find out on the day of the clean that he does not refect this in his carpet cleaning.

With it beining posable for just about anyone to call themself a carpet cleaner its become a risky business to use. why? well from an outsiders point of view it looks so easy and with the SKY TV adverts its not helped. But there is a science behind cleaning. I myself have city and guilds in cleaning science. Not many carpet cleaners have this level of training.

Why? well the people that sell the machines and products want to sell, so they make it sound really easy. and they position themselfs as experts many never have cleaned a carpet in their lifes.

Thats where the NCCA coem in. Its the trade body for carpet cleaners so look out for their logo.

Dangerous Chemicals in Your Closet

Bleach, acids and alkaline-based products can injure as they clean.

Most commercial cleaning products if used as directed by the manufacturer’s labels should not produce any significant health effects. However, a number of these products have the potential to produce a variety of adverse health effects if used improperly (incorrect dilution or application) or if mixed with other cleaning agents.

One of the most common is bleach. The active ingredient in most products containing bleach is sodium hypochlorite in concentrations ranging from 3 percent to 6 percent (with a pH level up to 11.0).

Some bleach solutions may also contain silicate (15 percent to 17 percent) and sodium carbonate (60 percent) and have a pH of 10.5. Bleaching agents are effective because they react with atmospheric carbon dioxide to produce hypochlorous acid, which chemically decomposes to produce oxygen free radicals.

Oxygen free radicals are believed to be responsible for the bleaching and disinfecting activity as well as the toxic effects associated with these compounds.

Health Effects

Symptoms following exposure to bleach will depend on the volume, viscosity, pH, concentration, and duration of contact. As an oxidizing agent, sodium hypochlorite is corrosive to tissue. Solutions containing less than 6 percent sodium hypochlorite will cause significant injury only after prolonged or extensive exposure.

However, concentrated solutions can produce more severe tissue injury with less-extensive exposure. Skin or eye exposure produces local burning and irritation. Inhaling sodium hypochlorite fumes may lead to sore throat, cough, wheezing, shortness of breath, and pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs).

Ingesting household bleach can cause oral, esophageal and gastric burns as well as produce nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal pain.

Acid-Containing Products

Toilet bowl cleaners contain various concentrations of corrosive agents, including such compounds as sulfuric acid (80 percent), hydrochloric acid (10 percent to 25 percent), oxalic acid (2 percent) or sodium bisulfate (70 percent to 100 percent).

Other acid-containing products which are corrosive in nature include drain cleaners (sulfuric acid or sodium hydroxide), metal cleaners and anti-rust compounds (hydrofluoric, phosphoric, oxalic, hydrochloric, sulfuric or chromic acids). The cleaning properties associated with these products are thought to stem from the corrosive nature of these compounds.

Symptoms following exposure to any of them will depend on the route, concentration and duration of contact. Acids produce their corrosive effects by directly damaging the surface layers of tissues. Except for hydrofluoric acid, the surface injury produced by acids prevents further penetration of the skin, limiting the extent of injury.

Effects to the skin following exposure can range from reddening and swelling to blister formation and overt skin destruction. Eye exposure may result in burning, pain, redness and corneal damage.

Inhaling acid fumes can cause sore throat, coughing, wheezing and shortness of breath. Severe exposure can lead to pulmonary edema, although this is not likely to occur with most household cleaning products.

Ingestion can lead to severe oral, esophageal and/or gastric burns, nausea, vomiting and abdominal pain.

Ammoniated Products

Ammonia-based cleaning products are also frequently used in commercial settings. These products are classified as alkaline (caustic) and contain from 3 percent to 10 percent ammonium hydroxide.

Other alkaline cleaning products include drain cleaners (sodium hydroxide), automatic dishwashing detergents (sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium metasilicate, sodium silicate, sodium carbonate) and oven cleaners (sodium hydroxide). The caustic nature of these compounds is thought to account for their cleaning properties.

The clinical effects from exposure to caustic compounds will depend on the concentration and the amount of contact. Alkaline agents directly damage tissues.

But unlike acid solutions, alkaline solutions have the potential for more serious tissue damage because their ability to solubilize skin fats and proteins lets them penetrate more deeply.

Skin contact with an alkaline solution will produce a soapy feel and result in severe pain, blister formation, and tissue destruction. Eye exposure may bring burning, pain, redness and severe corneal injury.

Inhaling ammonia or other alkaline fumes will produce burning pain in the nose, mouth, throat and chest. More severe exposure can cause hoarseness, coughing and difficulty in breathing. Ingestion can lead to severe oral, esophageal and/or gastric burns, nausea, vomiting and abdominal pain.

Mixing Cleaning Products

While casual exposure to any of these products can be dangerous, exposure to a combination of them can be deadly. In an attempt to make cleaning products work better and faster, workers have been known to mix multiple cleaning agents. But indiscriminate mixing of products can lead to the release of toxic gases.

For example, if bleach is mixed with an acid-containing toilet bowl cleaner, the result will be the release of deadly chlorine gas. If bleach is mixed with an ammonia-based cleaning agent, harmful chloramine gas — both monochloramine and dichloramine — will be generated.

The amount of damage depends on how much was inhaled — and for how long. Chlorine gas reacts with water-containing tissues (eyes, mouth and lungs) to produce hypochlorous acid and oxygen free radicals.

Exposure to low concentrations of chlorine — 1 to 10 parts per million (ppm) — may cause burning of the eyes, sore throat and cough. Higher concentrations (30 to 50 ppm) can lead to more severe coughing, shortness of breath, wheezing and pulmonary edema. If chlorine vapors become trapped in clothes, they can cause skin injury.

Anyone exposed to chlorine gas should be moved quickly to fresh air. This must be done cautiously to avoid exposing to rescuers to the fumes.

Individuals with significant skin exposure should have their clothes removed and skin washed thoroughly. In most instances, symptoms will disappear once the exposure ends. Persistent symptoms need to be further evaluated.

Chloramine Exposure

Similarly, when chloramine gas contacts the mucous membranes, it forms hypochlorous acid and oxygen free radicals — potent oxidizing agents — that produce direct injury to whatever tissue they contact. Because chloramine cannot be washed away as easily as chlorine, it can cause more serious damage.

Cleaning in confined spaces such as restrooms in the presence of chloramine gas can result in cough, sore throat, wheezing and pulmonary edema. Those exposed to the gas should be removed and treated like victims of chlorine gas exposure.

Most commercial cleaning products contain low concentrations of bleach, corrosives or caustic substances and are not likely to be health hazards if used properly. However, the mixing of bleach with acid- or ammonia-containing cleaning products can be fatal. Workers should be warned and discouraged from mixing any cleaning products.

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Benefits of carpet cleaning

Provides warmth and comfort

Carpet provides actual thermal resistance, or R-value.  In colder climates or seasons, it retains warm air longer, an energy conservation benefit.  Carpet also provides a comfortable place to sit, play or work and gives a room an overall warmer feeling.

Adds beauty and style

You can choose from many thousands of carpet styles and colors.  That means your ultimate choice will reflect how you want to personalize your living space.  Carpet can be a neutral foundation, or it can be a focal point with vibrant colors and stronger bolder patterns and textures.

Softens slips and falls

Carpet is ideal for cushioning our footsteps, reducing slips and falls and minimizing injuries when falls do occur. Carpet provides safety protection for the whole family, but especially for toddlers and older individuals.

Reduces noise

Big screen TVs, speaker phones, computers and modern sound systems make our homes noisy places. Carpet helps absorb these sounds. Adding a cushion pad beneath your carpet reduces noise even further.  Carpet also works as a sound barrier between floors by helping to block sound transmission to rooms below.  And carpet on stairs helps mask the sound of constant foot traffic.

Wears well

Carpet will maintain its life and beauty for many years when properly cleaned and maintained.  Learn to keep your carpet looking great over time by following these simple steps:

• Preventative Maintenance — Protect your investment before problems occur.
• Vacuuming — keep carpet clean through regular vacuuming, the single most effective way to keep carpets clean.
• Professional Cleaning — have carpets cleaned professionally, a periodic must.
• Spot and Stain Removal — Remember to use CRI Seal of Approval products.

Clearing the air

Asthma and allergies: Although we might not normally associate carpet with improved indoor air quality, it does have a very positive effect. Gravity causes common household particles, such as dust, pollen and pet and insect dander, to fall to the floor.  Carpet fibers trap the particles, reducing their continued circulation in the air.  Proper cleaning with CRI-approved vacuums effectively removes dust and allergens from the carpet, locks them in the machine and helps keep them out of the air we breathe.

A misperception is that people with asthma and allergies should avoid carpet in the home.  But much of today’s carpet is made from harmless materials found in clothing and other everyday fabrics, such as polyester, nylon and olefin fibers, which don’t trouble most people.
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Mold and VOC misperceptions: Other misperceptions about carpet involve mold and the emission of volatile organic compounds, or VOCs. In fact, it is very hard to grow mold on carpet. Mold grows in any moist environment where dirt and dust provide nutrients.  When carpet is kept clean and dry, mold simply cannot grow on synthetic fibers.

Carpet is also wrongly linked to high VOC levels.  Scientific studies show that new carpet is one of the lowest emitters of VOCs into the indoor environment, and that these emissions dissipate very quickly.  The low-level VOC emissions and the harmless odor from new carpet disappear within the first 48 to 72 hours after installation and even sooner with open windows or doors.

The Carpet and Rug Institute offers Green Label testing and certification to indicate carpet, carpet backings, cushions and adhesives that emit low VOCs.

Reducing the environmental footprint

The carpet industry is minimizing carpet’s impact on the environment through the new “3 Rs” which stand for reduce, reuse and recycle.  When carpet reaches the end of its long life, it is reused to make new carpet or is recycled into a variety of products, ranging from roofing shingles and railroad ties to automotive parts.

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What to Look For

Today’s carpet offers a wide variety of choices in style, fiber composition and color. Gone are the days of having to select only conventional loop pile, a carpet style consisting of yarn in uncut loops. New technology can produce multilevel loop and cut-loop patterns allowing diamond, bow, pin dot or fleur-de-lis designs that “pop out” in sculptured effects.

The texture, colors and pattern of the carpet can complement or contrast with patterns of your furniture and window treatments.  Using a solid color, textured carpet is a great way to provide interest and pizzazz, without going to a multicolor, overall pattern.  Textured styles also fit well with today’s active and casual lifestyles.

To select the best carpet for your home and lifestyle, you should consider:

* Manufacturing Method (Construction) and Fiber Content

* Color

* Quality and Performance Requirements

* Type of Cushion

* Insulation

* Green Label Carpet for Indoor Air Quality

* Special Considerations (Seniors, Pets)

Preparing for installation

Make sure that you know what services your installer will provide and what you might need to handle yourself. For example, there may be an additional charge to move your furniture. Keep these things in mind before hiring an installer:

* Remove all breakable items from area being carpeted and detach and store wiring from TVs, stereos, VCR/DVD and computers.

* Determine who will remove and dispose of the existing carpet and cushion.  Check recycling options in your area.

* Think about carpet placement. Ask that seams be placed in less visible areas, but don’t expect seams to be invisible.

* Understand that carpet installed over a separate cushion must be power stretched to prevent bubbling and wrinkling later.

* Insist that the installer follow the instructions from the carpet manufacturer and/or those set forth in the Standard for Installation of Residential Carpet, CRI 105 PDF (PDF 122 KB) Need Help with PDF?Before installers arrive, complete other remodeling projects intended in the room, such as painting and wallpapering.  Vacuum the old carpet to avoid the possibility of airborne dust and dirt.  After the carpet and cushion are removed, vacuum the sub-floor.

When carpet is delivered

Check your new carpet (texture, color and style) to make sure there are no visible defects before installation.  Be sure the installer will adhere to the Standard for Installation of Residential Carpet, CRI 105. PDF (PDF 122 KB) Need Help with PDF? Among other things, this standard requires that carpet must be power-stretched for proper installation to minimize wrinkling and rippling.  Seam edges must be sealed with an appropriate adhesive to prevent delamination and edge ravel.

Also, bear in mind that your new carpet needs to be installed over a structurally sound subfloor.  Any damage that has been done by insects, water or other problems need to be repaired prior to carpet installation.

During installation

New, thicker carpet may prevent doors from swinging clear and free. Your installer may remove the doors and rehang them if possible.  If the doors do not clear, arrange to have them trimmed.  It is your responsibility to provide an adequate supply of fresh air during installation.  Open windows and doors, use an exhaust fan or operate the fan of your heating or air conditioning system. The “new carpet smell” will clear very quickly, usually in less than 72 hours.

After installation

In the months following installation, you may notice some shedding or sprouting. This is normal and will not affect the carpet’s life or beauty. Here’s what to do:

* Shedding— The shedding of loose fibers is normal and should subside with regular vacuuming.

* Sprouting— If a single tuft extends beyond the carpet’s surface, simply clip it off. Do not pull it out.

* Pile reversal or shading— This seeming color change may occur in various parts of the carpet, caused by light being reflected in different ways as pile fibers are bend in different directions.  This is not a defect but a characteristic of plush carpet.

* Wrinkling— If ripples occur, call your retailer.  It may be necessary to professionally restretch the carpet.

If you have any additional questions, contact your retailer.

Carpet Comes Clean

What you need to know

The beauty and life of your carpet depends on the care it receives. Quality carpet that is well-maintained should last 10-15 years. Proper cleaning will keep it looking great for its full lifetime and help improve your indoor air quality. Maintaining your carpet also protects your pocketbook and the environment. The right cleaning helps safeguard your carpet investment by keeping you from having to replace it before its time. That is great news, because it also keeps carpet out of landfills prematurely.

Cleaning your carpet the right way is easier than you think. All it takes is a little knowledge about how to select the right carpet cleaning products and the right way to clean your carpet — from spot and interim cleaning to knowing when to call in the professionals.  The CRI Seal of Approval programs helps you easily identify effective carpet cleaning solutions and equipment that clean carpet right the first time, without the fear of faster resoiling, stains reappearing or damage.

Use this handy reference, if you have any question about your carpet’s appearance that is not cleaning related.

Basic Cleaning

Three steps for proper carpet care

Carpet cleaning is just like exercise! If you get into a routine and keep it up, you will see great results and feel better for it. And understanding the right way to clean carpet will help you save time by doing it correctly the first time with products that do the job right from the start. Not only will Seal of Approval cleaning products help keep your carpet looking great, they can also help meet the warranty requirements of the carpet manufacturer. Below are three simple steps to keeping your carpet clean and looking great:

1. Vacuum at the right frequency with a CRI-approved vacuum.

2. Clean spots and spills quickly with products that do not damage the carpet or cause it to resoil quicker.

3. Professionally deep clean your carpets every 12 to 18 months to remove embedded dirt and grime.

Stop dirt at the door

Preventing dirt and grime from getting on the carpet in the first place is a great way to start keeping it clean. The following helpful hints can stop dirt in its tracks.

* Use mats — Outdoor and indoor mats or runners can reduce the amount of dirt that enters the house.

* Take off your shoes — You can save wear and tear on carpet by asking everyone  to take off his or her shoes before entering your home.

* Change your air filters — Change air filters in your heating and air-conditioning systems as recommended by the manufacturer’s directions. The more dust and particles removed by the filter, the less that fall on the carpet.

Basic rug care

Rugs deserve the same care as wall-to-wall carpet and, in some cases, require special attention.

* Washing rugs — If your rug is small and the label says “machine washable,” shake the rug outside first and then put it in the washing machine at the recommended temperature. Use warm water (90 to 105 degrees) and a mild detergent. Tumble your rug dry at the lowest heat setting.

* Beating larger rugs — If your larger rug is easy to pick up, shake it outside first; then put it over a clothesline and beat it. Next, take the rug inside and vacuum it. If the label says dry clean only, then roll it up and take it to a dry cleaner. Save time and aggravation by calling first to see if the cleaner does rug cleaning — many do not.

* Vacuuming area rugs — Area rugs with fringe require special technique. Use gentle suction and start from the center of the carpet, vacuuming toward the fringe and being careful not to catch the strands in the beater bar. Lift the carpet edge to vacuum beneath the fringe.

* Caring for Oriental, Turkish or Persian rugs — Clean imported rugs according to your carpet manufacturer’s specifications or bring in a professional cleaning service. Be gentle with fringe. For heirloom-type rugs, you need professionals.

Spot Removal Steps

Act Quickly! Most carpet available today has been treated with a stain-resist treatment, so many spills can be removed if immediate action is taken. The longer the delay, the higher the probability of a spill becoming a permanent stain. Remember, staining is influenced by many factors, and no carpet is completely stain proof.

Blot liquids with a dry, white, absorbent cloth or white (no printing) paper towels.

Do not scrub the area! Scrubbing can cause pile distortion in the affected area. Continue to use a dry cloth or paper towels until the area is completely dry. For semi-solids, gently scrape up with a rounded spoon. Solids should be broken up and vacuumed until completely removed.

If the spot can be identified, locate the substance in the spot removal computer and follow the directions carefully.

Pretest any spot removal agent in an inconspicuous area to make certain the solution will not damage the fiber or the dye. After applying several drops to the testing area, hold a white cloth on the wet area for 10 seconds. Examine the carpet and cloth for color transfer, color change, or damage to the carpet. If a change occurs, another cleaning solution should be selected.

Apply a small amount of the selected cleaning solution to a white cloth, allow to sit for about 10 minutes and work in gently.

Work from the edges of the spill to the center to prevent the spill from spreading. Do not scrub! Blot, absorbing as much as possible, and repeat if necessary.

Continue using the first cleaning solution as long as there is a transfer of the spill to the cloth. It is not necessary to use all of the cleaning solutions if the first solution removes the spill. Be patient! Complete removal of the spill may require repeating the same step several times.

After the spill has been completely removed, rinse the affected area thoroughly with cold water, and blot with a dry cloth until all of the solution has been removed. Some cleaning solutions will cause rapid soiling if the solution is not completely removed. Apply a one-half inch layer of white paper towels to the affected area, and weigh down with a flat, heavy object. Continue to change paper towels as needed.

A dry, absorbent, cleaning compound may be used as a substitute to accelerate drying time.

For more detailed information on a specific spill, please search on the pull-down menu at left.

Many fiber manufacturers provide a toll-free cleaning assistance and advice (consult your warranty).

Deep Cleaning And Selecting A Carpet Cleaning Professional

Hire a carpet cleaning professional

If you find that no matter how much you vacuum, your carpet still does not look like it used to, it may be time for deep cleaning. While there are do-it-yourself cleaning methods on the market, hiring a professional is the safest, fastest and easiest option. To keep your carpet at peak performance, CRI recommends professionally deep cleaning your carpet every 12 to 18 months. (Be sure to check your carpet warranty for particular requirements.)

When looking for a cleaning professional, take these cautions to heart:

* Be careful of any company that contacts you by phone or that advertises a cleaning price by the room.  Room sizes vary and charges should be based on the total area cleaned.

* The use of brand name cleaning products does not necessarily suggest an affiliation with those companies or added credibility for the cleaning service. Make sure that you select a cleaning professional with certification from an organization that certifies professionals.

Ask Good Questions

Do not be afraid to ask questions! Here are a few questions to keep in mind:

* “How long have you been in business?” The answer can speak volumes about a company’s reputation and experience.

* “What formal training is required for the company’s management and cleaning technicians?” A reputable company should require that employees receive training certifications.

* “Do you vacuum before deep cleaning the carpet?” All professional cleaners should vacuum before they deep clean the carpet. This critical first step makes a huge difference in the end result.

* “Do you use Seal of Approval cleaning solutions and equipment?” Seal of Approval products have been independently tested and certified to effectively clean carpet without causing any damage.

Get an in-home inspection and estimate

Never go strictly by television advertisements or newspaper inserts or jump at the lowest bid.  And don’t accept quotes over the phone.  Have the cleaning representative come to your home for an inspection to determine the type of cleaning method that is most suitable, as well as to inspect your carpet for problem spots or extremely soiled areas.  Obtain a written agreement before any work is done.  Usually they will not charge for furniture removal, routine spot removal or preconditioning.  Make sure you are not charged for any extras. Get a written contract with the total price and statements of guarantees that the cleaning company offers.

Get your money’s worth

The following tips will help you get the best results from hiring a professional carpet cleaning service provider:

* Show the cleaning professional any problem areas and spots or pet stains that need special attention.

* To prevent voiding warranties, contact the carpet manufacturer before allowing additional treatment, such as re-applying stain treatments or antistatic treatments.

* Wait for the carpet to dry completely before walking on the carpet or moving the furniture back into the room. If you replace the furniture too quickly, rust or stains from paint or finishes could mar the carpet permanently.

Carpet Terms

CRI has listed some basic terminology below to help you become more educated when it comes to your carpet purchase and installation. Familiarizing yourself with these common carpet terms will help you communicate more effectively with your carpet retailer and installer, and it will help you make the most informed carpet decisions possible.

Antimicrobial —A chemical treatment added to carpet to reduce the growth of common bacteria, fungi, yeast, mold and mildew.

Antistatic — The ability of a carpet system to dissipate an electrostatic charge before it reaches the threshold of human sensitivity.

Attached Cushion — A cushioning material, such as foam, rubber, urethane, PVC, etc., adhered to the back side of a carpet to provide additional dimensional stability, thickness and padding.

Average Pile Yarn Weight —Mass per unit area of the pile yarn including buried portions of the pile yarn. In the United States, it is usually expressed as ounces per square yard.

Backing — Fabrics and yarns that make up the back of the carpet as opposed to the carpet pile or face. In tufted carpet:

* Primary backing — A woven or nonwoven fabric in which the yarn is inserted by the tufting needles.

* Secondary backing — Fabric laminated to the back of the carpet to increase dimensional stability.

In woven carpet, the backing consists of “construction yarns” which are interwoven with the face yarn.

Berber — A loop-pile carpet style tufted with thick yarn, such as wool, nylon or olefin. Often having random specks of color in contrast to a base hue, this carpet style has a full, comfortable feel, while maintaining an informal, casual look. Currently, this term has expanded to describe many level or multilevel loop carpet styles.

Binding — A band or strip sewn over a carpet edge to protect, strengthen or decorate the edge.

Broadloom — A term used to denote carpet produced in widths wider than 6 feet. Broadloom is usually 12 feet wide, but may also be 13 feet 6 inches and 15 feet wide.

Bulked continuous filament (BCF) — Continuous strands of synthetic fiber formed into yarn bundles of a given number of filaments and texturized to increase bulk and cover. Texturizing changes the straight filaments into kinked or curled configurations.

Construction — The manufacturing method (i.e., tufted, woven) and the final arrangement of fiber and backing materials as stated in its specification.

Cushion — Any kind of material placed under carpet to provide softness and adequate support when it is walked upon. Carpet cushion provides a softer feel underfoot and provides added acoustical and insulation benefits and longer wear life for the carpet. In some cases, the carpet cushion is attached to the carpet when it is manufactured. Also referred to as “padding” or “underlay,” although “cushion” is the preferred term. Cushion under most residential carpet should be a thickness of no greater than 7/16″ and no less than 1/4″ with 6 pound per cubic feet density. If the carpet is a Berber or a low profile carpet, choose a cushion of no more than 3/8″ thickness with 8 pounds of density.

Cut Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of cut ends of pile yarn.

Cut-Loop Pile — A carpet fabric in which the face is composed of a combination of cut ends of pile yarns and loops.

Delamination — Separation of the secondary backing or attached cushion from the primary backing of the carpet.

Density — Refers to the amount of pile yarn in the carpet and the closeness of the tufts. In general, the denser the pile, the better the performance.

Dimensional Stability — The ability of the carpet to retain its original size and shape, e.g. a secondary backing adds dimensional stability to carpet.

Direct Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet is adhered to the floor.

Double Glue-Down — An installation method whereby the carpet cushion is first adhered to the floor with an adhesive, and the carpet is then glued to the cushion.

Filament — A single continuous strand of natural or synthetic fiber.

Fluffing — Appearance on carpet surface of loose fiber fragments left during manufacture; not a defect, but a characteristic that disappears after carpet use and vacuuming. Sometimes called “fuzzing” or “shedding.”

Frieze — Pronounced “free-zay,” this tightly twisted yarn gives carpet a rough, nubby appearance.

Fuzzing — Hairy effect on fabric surface caused by fibers slipping out of the yarn with wear or wet cleaning.

Gauge — The distance between two needle points expressed in fractions of an inch. Applies to both knitting and tufting.

Hand — The tactile aesthetic qualities of carpet and textiles, how it feels to the hand.

Heat Setting— The process that sets the twist by heat or steam, enabling yarns to hold their twist over time. Important in cut pile carpet. Most nylon, olefin and polyester cut pile carpets are heat-set.

Indoor/Outdoor Carpet — A term synonymous with outdoor carpet.

Level Loop — The pile loops are of substantially the same height and uncut, making a smooth, level surface.

Loop Pile — Carpet style having a pile surface consisting of uncut loops. May be woven or tufted. Also called “round wire” in woven carpet terminology.

Luster — Brightness or sheen of fibers, yarns, carpet or fabrics.

Miter Joint — A junction of two pieces of carpet (or other material) at an angle. Most miter joints involve pieces at right angles to one another with their ends cut at 45 degrees to form the joint.

Pile — The visible surface of carpet consisting of yarn tufts in loop and/or cut configuration. Sometimes called “face” or “nap”.

Pile Crush — Loss of pile thickness due to compression and bending of tufts caused by traffic and heavy furniture. The tufts collapse into the air space between them. This may be irreversible if the yarn has inadequate resilience or the pile has insufficient density for the traffic load. Frequent vacuuming will lift the pile for longer carpet life.

Pilling — A condition of the carpet face (which may occur from heavy traffic) in which fibers from different tufts become entangled with one another, forming tangled masses of fibers. Pills may be cut off with scissors.

Plush — Luxuriously smooth-textured carpet surface in which individual tufts are only minimally visible and the overall visual effect is that of a single level of yarn ends. This finish is normally achieved only on cut-pile carpet produced from spun yarns by brushing and shearing. Sometimes called “velvet-plush.”

Ply — 1. A single-end component in a plied yarn. 2. The number that tells how many single ends have been ply-twisted together to form a plied yarn, e.g., two-ply or three-ply.

Power Stretcher — A carpet installation tool used to stretch carpet for installation with a tackless strip. According to industry standards, residential carpet, installed over A cushion with a tackless strip, must be power-stretched to prevent wrinkles and ripples.

Resilience — Ability of carpet pile or cushion to recover original appearance and thickness after being subjected to compressive forces or crushing under traffic.

Saxony — A cut-pile carpet texture with twisted yarns in a relatively dense, erect configuration. The effect is well-defined tuft tips.

Seams — In a carpet installation, the line formed by joining the edges of two pieces of carpet by the use of seaming tapes, hand sewing or other techniques.

Seam Sealing — A procedure in which a continuous bead of adhesive is applied to the trimmed edges of carpet to be joined at a seam. Seam sealing prevents fraying and unraveling at the seam.

Serging — A method of finishing edges of area rugs by use of heavy, colored yarn sewn around the edges in a close, overcast stitch.

Shading — A change in the appearance of a carpet due to localized distortions in the orientation of the fibers, tufts or loops. Shading is not a change in color or hue, but a difference in light reflection.

Sisal — A carpet style mimicking the woven look of rugs made from a natural plant fiber. The pattern has the appearance of interwoven webs but is created on a tufting machine by continually adjusting the height of each pile yarn.

Soil Retardant — A chemical finish applied to fibers or carpet surfaces that inhibits the attachment of soil.

Sprouting — Protrusion of individual tuft or yarn ends above the pile surface. May be clipped with scissors.

Staple — Short lengths of fiber that may be converted into spun yarns by textile yarn spinning processes. These spun yarns are also called “staple” yarns. For carpet yarns spun on the common, modified worsted systems, most staple is six to eight inches long. Staple fiber may also be converted directly into nonwoven fabrics, such as needlepunched carpet.

Stitches — Stitches per inch. Number of yarn tufts per running inch of a single tuft row in tufted carpet.

Stretch-In — Installation procedure for installing carpet over a separate cushion using a tackless strip; properly performed with a power stretcher.

Tackless Strip — Wood or metal strips fastened to the floor near the walls of a room containing either two or three rows of pins angled toward the walls on which the carpet backing is stretched and secured in a stretch-in installation.

Tuft Bind — Force required to pull a tuft from the carpet.

Tufted — Carpet manufactured by the insertion of tufts of yarn through a carpet-backing fabric, creating a pile surface of cut and/or loop ends.

Twist—- The winding of the yarn around itself. Should be neat and well-defined. A tighter twist provides enhanced durability.

Underlay — Carpet cushion under rugs.

Woven — Carpet produced on a weaving loom in which the lengthwise yarns and widthwise yarns are interlaced to form the fabric, including the face and the backing.

Yarn Ply — The number of single yarns twisted together to form a plied yarn.

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